If you love sewing, you know how important it is to choose the right needle for your project. But with so many types, sizes, and uses of sewing machine needles, it can be hard to keep track of them all. That’s why we created this ultimate guide to sewing machine needles, where we will explain everything you need to know about these essential tools.
Sewing machine needles are classified by two main criteria: type and size. The type of needle refers to the shape and design of the needle, which determines what kind of fabric and thread it can work with. The size of the needle refers to the thickness and length of the needle, which affects how it penetrates the fabric and forms stitches.
Types of Sewing Machine Needles
There are many types of sewing machine needles, but they can be grouped into four main categories: universal, ballpoint, sharp, and specialty.
Universal needles: are the most common and versatile type of needles for antique sewing machines. They have a slightly rounded tip that can work with most woven and knit fabrics. They are also compatible with most types of thread, such as cotton, polyester, and rayon.
Ballpoint needles: have a more rounded tip than universal needles, which makes them ideal for knit fabrics. They slide between the fibers of the fabric without piercing or damaging them, which prevents skipped stitches and runs. They are also good for fabrics that have some stretch, such as jersey, fleece, and spandex.
Sharp needles: have a very fine and sharp tip that can pierce through tightly woven fabrics, such as silk, cotton, and linen. They create precise and even stitches that look neat and professional. They are also good for fabrics that have a lot of texture, such as denim, canvas, and leather.
Specialty needles are designed for specific purposes or materials that require a different shape or coating of the needle. Some examples of specialty needles are:
Embroidery needles:
These have a larger eye and a sharper tip than universal needles, which allows them to work with thicker and decorative threads, such as embroidery floss, metallic thread, or wool.
Stretch needles:
These have a medium ballpoint tip and a special scarf (the indentation above the eye) that prevents skipped stitches on fabrics that have a high degree of stretch, such as elastic, lycra, or rubber.
Quilting needles:
These have a tapered point and a shorter length than universal needles, which makes them easier to maneuver through multiple layers of fabric and batting.
Leather needles:
These have a wedge-shaped point that can cut through leather and other thick materials without tearing them.
Twin needles:
These have two needles attached to one shank, which allows them to create two parallel rows of stitches at the same time. They are used for decorative stitching or hemming on knit fabrics.
Sizes of Sewing Machine Needles
The size of a sewing machine needle is indicated by a number that represents its diameter in millimeters. The higher the number, the thicker the needle. For example, a size 70 needle is 0.7 mm thick, while a size 100 needle is 1 mm thick.
The size of the needle you need depends on the weight and thickness of the fabric you are sewing. As a general rule, you should use a smaller needle for lighter fabrics and a larger needle for heavier fabrics. For example, you would use a size 70 or 80 needle for silk or chiffon, a size 90 or 100 needle for denim or canvas, and a size 110 or 120 needle for leather or upholstery.
You should also consider the type and thickness of the thread you are using. A thinner thread requires a smaller needle, while a thicker thread requires a larger needle. For example, you would use a size 75 or 80 needle for embroidery thread, a size 90 or 100 needle for regular sewing thread, and a size 110 or 120 needle for topstitching thread.
How to Choose the Right Needle for Your Project?
To choose the right needle for your project, you need to consider three factors: the type of fabric, the type of thread, and the type of stitch.
First, you need to identify the type of fabric you are sewing. Is it woven or knit? Is it light or heavy? Is it smooth or textured? Is it natural or synthetic? Based on these characteristics, you can narrow down your options to one or two types of needles.
Second, you need to select the type of thread you are using. Is it cotton, polyester, rayon, nylon, silk, wool, or metallic? Is it thin or thick? Is it smooth or fuzzy? Based on these characteristics, you can determine the size of the needle you need.
Third, you need to decide what kind of stitch you want to create. Is it straight or zigzag? Is it regular or decorative? Is it single or double? Based on these characteristics, you can choose between a single or a twin needle, and adjust the length and width of the stitch.
How to Change a Sewing Machine Needle
Changing a sewing machine needle is a simple but important task that you should do regularly to ensure the best results for your sewing projects. A dull, bent, or damaged needle can cause skipped stitches, uneven tension, thread breakage, fabric damage, and machine damage.
To change a sewing machine needle, you need to follow these steps:
- Turn off the power of your sewing machine and unplug it from the outlet.
- Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you.
- Lower the presser foot and remove the fabric and thread from the machine.
- Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it counterclockwise with a screwdriver or your fingers.
- Remove the old needle by pulling it down and out of the needle clamp.
- Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side facing the back of the machine. Make sure the needle is pushed up as far as it can go.
- Tighten the needle clamp screw by turning it clockwise until it is secure.
- Re-thread the machine and test the stitch on a scrap of fabric.
How to Care for Your Sewing Machine Needles
To keep your sewing machine needles in good condition and extend their lifespan, you should follow these tips:
- Change your needle after every 8 hours of sewing or after every project, whichever comes first.
- Use the right type and size of needle for your fabric and thread.
- Store your needles in their original packaging or in a needle case, away from moisture and dust.
- Do not use pins, staples, or glue on your fabric, as they can damage your needle.
- Do not sew over pins, buttons, zippers, or other hard objects, as they can bend or break your needle.
- Do not force your fabric through the machine, as it can cause your needle to hit the metal parts of the machine and damage them.
- Do not drop your needle on the floor, as it can become dirty or dull.
Conclusion
Sewing machine needles are essential tools that can make a big difference in the quality and appearance of your sewing projects. By choosing the right type and size of needle for your fabric and thread, and by changing and caring for your needles regularly, you can ensure smooth and trouble-free sewing.
We hope this ultimate guide to sewing machine needles has helped you understand everything you need to know about these amazing tools. Happy sewing!